Sarajevo Travel Guide- what to see, eat and do

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Of all the cities we drove through on our Balkan summer, Sarajevo hit differently. It’s not just another Euro capital with a lot of old buildings and good coffee (which it has, too). Sarajevo is multidimensional, complicated, and utterly captivating in a way that slowly creeps up on you. You arrive planning to receive history lessons and leave feeling like you’ve witnessed something very profound.
The city proudly sports its wounds but will never be defined by them. Ottoman mosques adjoin Austro-Hungarian buildings, war-torn buildings adjoin hipster cafes, and the call to prayer mingling with church bells. It’s a city of contradictions that, despite everything, somehow works.

We stayed a full month in Sarajevo as part of our Bosnia road trip and got to know it well. Our Sarajevo travel guide will help you discover why we fell in love, and might make you do the same!

A brief history lesson

You can’t really understand Sarajevo without knowing what it went through. Between 1992 and 1996, the city endured the longest siege of a capital city in modern warfare history: nearly four years. The Siege of Sarajevo left deep marks on the city and its people, from bullet holes still visible on buildings to the powerful memorials scattered throughout.

But here’s what struck us most: Sarajevo isn’t stuck in its past. Yes, the history is heavy and important to acknowledge, but this is also a city buzzing with life, creativity, and an almost defiant optimism. The resilience you feel here is real, and it’s inspiring.

When to visit Sarajevo

Sarajevo is beautiful year-round, but timing your visit can make a difference: April-May (spring) and September-October (fall) offer good weather, fewer people, and beautiful colors in the surrounding mountains. It is hot and crowded during June-August (summer), especially in the old city, but the mood is excellent and all of the outdoor cafes are in full swing. December-February (winter) is snowy, which makes the city magical, especially around the old city and higher up in the mountains. Just bundle up!
We visited in July and the weather was hot! Temperatures reached 38 Celsius in the afternoon. Definitely consider whether you’re up for that!

Getting around Sarajevo

Sarajevo is incredibly walkable, especially if you’re staying in or near Baščaršija (the old town). Most of the main sights are within a comfortable stroll of each other.

Trams run throughout the city and are cheap and reliable. You can buy tickets at kiosks or from the driver. Taxis and ride-shares are also affordable if you need them.

For getting up to Trebević Mountain, the cable car is your best bet (more on that below!). If you’re planning day trips outside the city, renting a car gives you the most flexibility, but there are also plenty of tour operators offering trips to places like Srebrenica, Mostar, and the tunnel museum.

Sarajevo travel guide: things to do

Sarajevo old town

Baščaršija: Start in the midst of pulsating Sarajevo. This old, Ottoman city is a maze of cobblestone alleys, copper-colored shops, and coffeehouses. Wander around, buy the souvenirs, and absorb the hum.

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque: One of the loveliest pieces of Balkan Ottoman architecture. Non-Muslims can visit between prayer periods; just dress sensibly and be considerate.

Sebilj Fountain: The ornate wooden fountain in the middle of Baščaršija.

Latin Bridge: The plain bridge over the Miljacka River where Archduke Franz Ferdinand was killed in 1914 and World War I began. There’s a small museum on the corner if you want the entire history.

Lunch: Have the ćevapi at Ćevabdžinica Beg. Those little, grilled meat sausages served in fresh somun bread with raw onions are Bosnian classics, and these guys do them up right.

Bosnian Coffee: Don’t have Turkish coffee, have Bosnian coffee. Have one at Ministry of Cejf and relax. The making is a ritual, and it’s to be sipped slowly as you observe the people passing by.

Sunset at Yellow Fortress (Žuta Tabija): Hike up just as the sun sets for panoramic views over the city. Grab a beer or a coffee from one of the stalls along the way and relax. The view is stunning, the vibe is relaxed, and it’s a wonderful way to end an evening.

History immersion

Sarajevo’s past can’t be escaped, and honestly, you shouldn’t try. Visiting the sites of war is depressing, but it’s also essential to understanding the city and its people and deserves a separate section in any Sarajevo travel guide.

Museum of Crimes Against Humanity and Genocide: The museum is located in the former Bosnian Serb army barracks and depicts the crimes committed during the Bosnian War. It’s a haunting, sobering experience, but a tough one to get through, and well worth it.

Or: War Childhood Museum: It’s a more diverse approach, one that focuses on how kids lived through the siege. It’s emotional and personal in a way that makes the history intimate.

Tunnel Museum (Tunel Spasa): Just beyond the airport, this museum preserves part of the secret tunnel that connected besieged Sarajevo to the outside world. It’s about a 20-minute taxi ride from the city centre but well worth it. Hearing of how people survived thanks to this lifeline is unforgettable.

Afternoon Break: Break after the emotional expenditure of the morning. Get yourself to a quiet café in the old town, have lunch, and just breathe. This is not a checklist holiday; give yourself time to soak in.

Afternoon Wander: Stroll along by the Miljacka River, stroll across the various bridges and take in the street art. The Festina Lente pedestrian bridge is particularly photogenic.

Dinner: Have traditional Bosnian food at a local restaurant. Have begova čorba (dense soup), klepe (Bosnian dumplings), and tufahija (walnut-filled apple pastry) for dinner.

📖 Read more about our Bosnian road trip here!

Getting out of the city

Trebević Mountain Cable Car: Take the cable car up to Trebević for incredible views over Sarajevo and the surrounding mountains. At the top, you can explore the abandoned bobsled track from the 1984 Winter Olympics, now covered in graffiti art. It’s eerie, beautiful, and a photographer’s dream.

Vrelo Bosne: If you have time, head to the source of the Bosna River. It’s a peaceful park with tree-lined paths, horse-drawn carriages, and crystal-clear springs. Perfect for a relaxed afternoon if you need a break from the intensity of the city.

Hidden gems

Eternal Flame (Vječna Vatra): A memorial to WWII victims, this flame has burned continuously since 1946. It’s a gathering spot for locals and a quiet moment of reflection.

Avaz Twist Tower: For a modern perspective, head to the observation deck and sky bar of Sarajevo’s twisting skyscraper. The views are fantastic, and it’s a reminder that Sarajevo isn’t frozen in time.

The Canned Beef monument in Sarajevo humorously commemorates the tins of low-quality canned meat (often labeled “ICRC”) distributed during the city’s siege in the 1990s. It stands as both a satirical reminder of wartime aid and a testament to the resilience and dark humor of Sarajevo’s people.

Adding Mostar to your itinerary? Read our best things to do in Mostar guide here.

What to eat in Sarajevo

Bosnian food is hearty, meat-heavy, and absolutely delicious. Here’s what you need to try:

Ćevapi: Grilled minced meat sausages served in somun (flatbread) with onions. Every Sarajevan has an opinion on where to get the best. We loved Ćevabdžinica Beg, but you’ll find them everywhere.

Burek: Flaky pastry filled with meat, cheese, or spinach. Grab one for breakfast at Buregdžinica Bećiri (trust us, it’s better than the more famous Sač).

Pita: Similar to burek but rolled instead of layered. Just as delicious.

Bosnian Coffee: Thick, strong, and served in a džezva (copper pot) with a sugar cube. It’s a ritual, not a caffeine hit.

Rakija: The local fruit brandy. Often homemade, always strong. Sip it slowly, don’t shot it like cheap tequila.

Local Beer: Try Sarajevsko, the local brew. It’s light, crisp, and perfect after a day of walking.

For a sit-down meal, look for restaurants serving traditional Bosnian dishes rather than generic Balkan fare. Ask locals for recommendations; Sarajevans love to share their favorite spots.

Practical tips for visiting Sarajevo

• Currency: Bosnia uses the Convertible Mark (BAM or KM). Some places accept euros, but you’ll get a better deal paying in marks. ATMs are everywhere.
• Cash is King: While larger restaurants and hotels take cards, many smaller cafés, markets, and shops are cash-only. Always carry some marks.
• Language: Bosnian is the official language, but you’ll hear Serbian and Croatian too (they’re very similar). Many younger people speak English, especially in tourist areas. Learn a few words: “hvala” (thank you), “molim” (please), and “živjeli” (cheers) go a long way.
• Dress Modestly for Mosques: If you’re visiting religious sites, cover your shoulders and knees. Women might need a headscarf (often provided at the entrance).
• Tipping: 10% is standard if you’re happy with the service. Round up for taxis and small purchases.
• Day Trips from Sarajevo: If you have extra time, consider a day trip to Srebrenica (sobering but important), Mostar (iconic bridge, beautiful old town), or the Lukomir highland village (remote and stunning).

Check our guide on how to choose your location for your Sarajevo stay!

Sarajevo travel guide FAQ

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