Nestled in the heart of the Mediterranean, Sicily beckons travelers with its timeless allure even during the quieter months of winter. Among its many treasures, the ancient city of Syracuse stands as a testament to its rich history and captivating beauty. As winter descends upon this picturesque island, a visit to Sicily and the enchanting city of Syracuse promises a unique and tranquil experience. With fewer crowds and milder temperatures, winter unveils a different side of this sun-kissed destination, allowing visitors to explore its archaeological wonders, savor its culinary delights, and soak in the serene Mediterranean atmosphere in a more intimate setting.
We spent the full month of February of this year in Syracuse, and had oceans of time to explore and experience the city at a leisurely pace. Sicily in winter is worth the effort; and we’ll tell you all about it!
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How do you get to Sicily?
The main airports in Sicily are Palermo and Catania. For Syracuse (and all of the south coast) you’ll want to fly to Catania. From Catania, the bus will take you to Syracuse in an hour, driving with a rental will take you the same amount of time. Public transport in Sicily is actually great, the buses as well as the trains leave at regular intervals and are easy to book. Check buses here and trains here.
Sicily in winter:
Syracuse and Ortigia sights
Most of Syracuse’s sights are at the peninsula and old center of Ortigia, hence why Ortigia is the busiest part of the city and the part where most people choose to stay. That doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do outside of Ortigia though!
The ear of Dionysius
Parco Archeologico della Neapoli is where you will find, among other things, the ear of Dionysius. A large cave shaped like an ear, of which is being said that Dionysius used it to eavesdrop on prisoners because of the good acoustics. The actual archeological park is beautiful and worth a visit. The antique Greek theater with views over the city, the Roman amphitheater and the gardens and caves are all visited within a 2 to 3 hour walk.
Santuario della Madonna delle Lacrime
This cult-ish looking structure will catch your eye immediately when you enter Syracuse. It doesn’t look like a catholic church, but it is. The design was and is controversial, and once you’re standing in front of it, you’ll understand why. Definitely not what you’re used to when it comes to church design. There are services every monday, and a hearing impaired service once a month.
Museo archeologico regionale Paolo Orsi
While you’re in the neighborhood, Museo Archeologico regionale Paolo Orsi is one of the most important archeological museums in Europe. Inside you will find four sectors, dedicated to the prehistoric era, the Greek era, archeological findings in Syracuse and the Roman period.
Ortigia
Ortigia, Syracuse’s old town, is best discovered on foot, and to get a little bit lost. There are narrow alleys that breathe authenticity, big and small squares, and little terraces by the water to find, where you may even be lucky enough to sit in the winter sun and see Sicilian life pass you by.
Apollo’s temple
You’ve barely set foot on Ortigia and you’ll stumble upon your first temple; that of Apollo, in the middle of the square. It’s one of the oldest monuments in Sicily and been used in many different ways. From christian church to arab mosque to quarry and prison. Houses around the temple were removed early 20th century, so that it was open for viewing. Until that time, one had to ask the home owners for access to be able to see anything.
Piazza Duomo
On the biggest square in Syracuse is the cathedral of Santa Maria del Piliero, beautifully lit by the sun and the marble tiling of the square itself. You could sit here for hours just to watch people, drink your coffee and admire the old buildings. The church is a popular wedding venue and the square a beloved place for the locals to hang out.
Arethusa’s Spring
Arethusa’s spring is a natural water source where, according to Greek mythology, the nymph Arethusa returned to after her escape from Arcadia. Apart from that, it’s a pretty picture due to the papyrus plans inside the spring, (one of only 2 places in Europe where they naturally grow) and the view over the bay of Ortigia. There are plenty of small cafe’s and terraces around to sit and enjoy the view.
Castello Maniace
If castles and forts are your jam, Castello Maniace is the castle perched at the end of Ortigia. It offers breathtaking views over the Mediterranean Sea and the coast line, which makes it an ideal spot to enjoy the beauty of Sicily while you wander through the old hallways.
Ortigia market
Even in winter there is a market in Ortigia. Every Saturday morning, this is the place to get your fresh fish, fruit, vegetables and nuts. In a typical Sicilian fashion, so noisy!
Walk along the coast
You can almost fully circle Ortigia along the boulevard by the water. The walk gives you pretty views over the blue Mediterranean, with picturesque spots to enjoy the sunset.
Visit Noto
From Syracuse, it’s only a half hour to the charming town of Noto. The perfect half day trip when you’re looking to explore a bit further!
Food and drinks in Syracuse
A large part of the ‘what to do in Ortigia’ contains of eating. What else? Walking the peninsula you will pass atmospheric restaurants, terraces and specialty stores. A selection of our favorites:
Drinks
- BOATS. Ortigia’s best cocktail bar. The door is a little hidden, but don’t give up!
- Caffë d’Ortigia. Straight across Apollo’s temple, and the perfect spot for people watching
- Enoteca Solarioa. A wine shop and cafe in an old fashioned setting. With food to compliment your glass
- Biblios Cafe, where you sit in and drink in a bookshop!
- MAUD wine & Food. A small place just outside of Ortigia, with good wines
- Alimentari Randieri Lucia. A tiny place to drink a good Aperol with views of the castle
- Cortile Verga, a charming courtyard where they serve good cocktails.
Food
- La Tavernette Da Piero. A family business, with the patriarch behind the register at the door. Local, good food at good prices.
- Area M. In case you’re feeling fancy. Nicely situated at the water, with beautifully balances dishes.
- La Salumeria Fratelli Burgio. Awesome delicacy store with seating where they serve excellent bites and sandwiches.
- Caseificio Borderi next door makes even better sandwiches.
- Another fancy one: Onda Blu is a fish restaurant where you enter through the shop. Superior quality, though we will say that the sea urchin is an acquired taste! Close to Syracuse’s train station.
- Also outside of Ortigia: Il Quarto Steakhouse, when you’re feeling like a good piece of meat. Very local, very noisy, very Italian. Good food and service.
- Soul Kitchen for nice (Italian) tapas at good prices. A new place outside of the tourist route.
Where to sleep in Syracuse
Easiest, especially if you only have a few days, is a hotel in Ortigia. It’s full of cute boutique hotels, so you’re in luck!
→ Lanterne Magiche Ortigia. Cute apartments in a 18th century building at the perfect location. Rates start at around 80 euros, which includes a sea view!
→ Hotel Gutkowski. A stylish hotel with a rooftop terrace! For 80 euros you will get a room including breakfast in the. middle of Ortigia.
→ A little more budget friendly? Ortigia Luxury Apartments offers beautiful apartments in a beautiful building with everything you could wish for.
FIND YOUR OWN HOTEL IN ORTIGIA
Sicily in winter: FAQ
Will everything be open in winter?
All of the sights are open, as well as most restaurants and cafe’s. The residents need to eat as well after all. Do check the opening hours beforehand though, as they might be shorter than in summer.
How cold is it in winter?
When we were there early February, the temperature in the day was usually between 12 and 18 degrees celsius. We had days were we sat outside in a t-short and got sunburned. It can be a bit rainier. Keep in mind that the time around Christmas is high season as well.
How many days do you need for Syracuse and Ortigia?
Two days should be enough, but if you want to see all churches and palazzi and want to take it easy? 3 to 4 days would be perfect.
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO
Our favorite tours in Syracusa and Ortigia:
Book your day trips easily through GetYourGuide or Viator
Booking.com will land you the best hotel deals
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