If you’ve kept up, with us you might remember that we’ve spent the entire summer of ’25 road tripping through the Balkans. We had our own car, and drove through 4 countries at a very leisurely pace. Neither of us had visited the Balkans before; and save to say it is now our favourite part of Europe! Distances are relatively short, the landscapes are always changing and it still feels far away from the mass tourism that is starting to creep in everywhere nowadays.
This is our ultimate Balkan road trip itinerary; in which we’ll take you through North Macedonia, Albania, Montenegro and Bosnia Herzegovina. You could take as long as you want (we took 5 months, after all), but this route is doable in 3 weeks.
Why the Balkans are perfect for a road trip
The Balkans are an emerging destination, and for good reason. While this region is still a little off the mainstream radar, now is the time to take advantage.
What makes the region so perfect?
- Compact but diverse: You can drive from beach to mountains in a few hours
- Affordable: Accommodation, food, and gas won’t break the bank
- Empty roads: Yes, they’re not great, but at least there is no one in your way
- Spontaneity-friendly: The best moments come from unplanned detours
- Real local culture: Tourism hasn’t monopolised everything yet
The roads range from perfectly smooth highways to occasionally sketchy mountain passes (looking at you, Albanian interior), but that’s part of the adventure.
Essential planning
🚙 Rent vs. your own car:
We drove our own, but if you’re renting, make sure border crossing is allowed!
📝 Insurance:
- Green Card insurance is mandatory for most Balkans
- Some countries (like Albania and North Macedonia) require you to buy insurance at the border if your Green Card doesn’t cover them
💨 Driving Tips
- Drive on the right everywhere
- Parking in old towns can be nightmare; look for paid lots on the outskirts
- Gas stations are frequent except in Albanian mountain areas
- Road quality varies wildly, especially in Albania and rural Bosnia
☀️ Best Time To Go
May-June & September-October are ideal. You get warm weather, fewer crowds, and everything’s open. July and August can reach temperatures above 40 Celsius.
The route at a glance
Bosnia & Herzegovina (Sarajevo, Mostar) → Montenegro (Bay of Kotor, Durmitor National Park) → Albania (Shkodër, Berat, Albanian Riviera, Gjirokastër) → North Macedonia (Ohrid, Skopje)
You can start anywhere on this loop, but we’ve organized it geographically to minimize backtracking. Most travelers enter through Sarajevo or fly into Tirana and work from there.
Our ultimate Balkan road trip itinerary
Bosnia & Herzegovina
We fell in love with Bosnia. The food, the people, the history; everything just exceeded expectations. Spend time in Baščaršija, the old bazaar, where the smell of grilled ćevapi mixes with strong coffee. Visit museums and memorials not just to see, but to understand. Sarajevo rewards travelers who approach it with curiosity and respect.
Sarajevo
Must do’s:
- Baščaršija & Sebilj Fountain
- Latin Bridge
- Tunnel of Hope Museum
- Yellow Fortress at sunset
- Traditional Bosnian coffee and eat ćevapi
- Take the cable car up Trebević for sunset views
Day trip: Mostar
The famous Stari Most (Old Bridge) is worth seeing, but Mostar definitely is more touristy than Sarajevo. Go early, watch the bridge divers (if you’re lucky), wander the Ottoman old town, and head back. The drive from Sarajevo takes about 2.5 hours.
Where we stayed
We loved Grbavica for its local feel, but if you’re staying for just a few days you might feel better off closer to the center. Check our guide to where to stay in Sarajevo here.
Extend your Bosnia trip
From Sarajevo, the road trip truly opens up. Bosnia’s countryside is wild, green, and deeply underrated.
Drive through mountain valleys, along turquoise rivers, and into towns that feel untouched by mass tourism. Most travelers include Mostar, and we suggest you do too, but the real magic lies in the smaller stops and scenic drives between destinations.
Expect slower roads, spontaneous viewpoints, and moments where you’ll want to pull over just to take it all in.
Read our full Bosnia road trip itinerary here!
Montenegro
Tiny Montenegro packs serious punch: dramatic coastline, medieval towns, and wild mountain scenery.
Kotor
The Bay of Kotor is jaw-droppingly beautiful; a fjord-like inlet surrounded by cliffs and medieval towns. Kotor’s old town is beautiful early in the morning or late in the evening, when cruise crowds fade. Climbing the fortress is challenging but rewarding, especially at sunrise.
Must do’s:
- Hike the Kotor fortress walls (1,350 steps, start early before the heat)
- Cycle the scenic bay road, stopping in Perast
- Take a boat to Our Lady of the Rocks island
- Sunset drinks in one of the waterfront towns
- Sunset swims from stone piers
Durmitor NP
If you want mountains, lakes, and zero crowds, head inland to Durmitor. The drive from Kotor takes about 3 hours through incredible scenery. We camped by Black Lake and it was one of the trip highlights.
Must do’s:
- Hike around Black Lake (an easy hike)
- Drive the Tara River Canyon road (one of Europe’s deepest canyons)
- Camp if weather permits: the stars are incredible
Albania
Albania was completely unplanned and ended up being one of our favorite countries. The diversity, the wildness, the affordability, the lack of tourist infrastructure (which is actually a plus); we loved every chaotic minute.
Shkodër & Zogaj
Enter from Montenegro through the Shkodër border. The city itself is fine but not a highlight. The real gem is Zogaj, a quiet village on Lake Shkodër where time seems to stop.
What we did
- Rozafa Castle for views
- Drove to Zogaj and stayed with a local family
- Swam in the lake, ate fresh fish, did absolutely nothing for three days
Berat
Berat is one of Albania’s most beautiful and atmospheric towns, and a great place to ease into the Balkan rhythm. White Ottoman houses cascade down the hillside toward the Osum River, while the castle looms above it all.
Spend your first day wandering without a plan: crossing the Gorica Bridge, getting lost in the Mangalem quarter, and stopping for coffee wherever the view feels right. In the late afternoon, climb up to Berat Castle, where people still live inside the walls and the light turns golden over the valley.
Must do’s:
- Explore Berat Castle and the Onufri Museum
- Wander both the Mangalem and Gorica quarters
- Join the evening xhiro along Boulevard Republika
- Eat traditional Albanian food at Amalia Homemade Food
- Watch sunset from the castle
If you have an extra day, consider a nature detour to Osum Canyon or Bogove Waterfall before continuing south.
Gjirokaster
Driving south, the landscape becomes more rugged as you approach Gjirokastër.
The old town is a maze of stone streets and steep staircases. The Gjirokastër Castle dominates the skyline and offers panoramic views across the Drino Valley. Inside, you’ll find museums, remnants of communist history, and Cold War artifacts that give context to Albania’s recent past.
Must do’s:
- Explore the castle and its Cold War tunnels
- Wander the charming cobbled streets
- Traditional dinner at a 200-year-old house restaurant
- Visit the Ethnographic Museum
Where we stayed
- Zogaj: with a local family that is currently not hosting
- Berat: Oda e Skulptorit, an absolute discovery
- Gjirokaster: Hotel Gjirokastra
North Macedonia
Ohrid
After crossing into North Macedonia, Lake Ohrid feels like a deep exhale. Calm, blue, and impossibly serene, it’s one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe.
Base yourself in the old town or near the lake and settle into a gentle routine: morning swims, long lunches, sunset walks. Ohrid is rich in history but never overwhelming; churches sit quietly above the water, and boats drift past as if nothing has changed in decades.
Must do’s:
- Church of St. John at Kaneo (sunrise or sunset)
- Swim from Kaneo or Labino Beach
- Walk the old town streets
- Take a boat ride across the lake
- Visit Sveti Naum as a day trip
Ohrid is the kind of place where many travelers accidentally stay longer than planned; and we were no exception.
Skopje
Skopje is one of the Balkans’ most polarizing capitals; and that’s exactly what makes it so interesting.
In one afternoon you can walk from the Ottoman Old Bazaar, full of mosques and caravanserais, to a city center filled with grand statues and neoclassical facades built as part of a controversial modernization project.
Take the cable car up Mount Vodno for sweeping views over the city, then return for dinner along the river.
Must do’s:
- Explore the Old Bazaar (Čaršija)
- Kale Fortress
- Walk across the Stone Bridge
- Mount Vodno viewpoint
- See the oversized statues in Macedonia Square (love them or hate them)
Where we stayed
- Ohrid: Villa & Winery Mal Sveti Clement, in the middle of the old town
- Skopje: Hotel Arka
The ultimate Balkan road trip: essential packing
Navigation
Offline maps (Maps.me) especially in interior Albania
Download your offline maps on wifi or home
Practical
First aid kit for minor scrapes and stings
Compression packing cubes (living out of a car gets messy fast)
Comfortable walking shoes: cobblestones everywhere
Sunscreen and sunglasses (summer sun is brutal)
Cash in multiple currencies
The ultimate Balkan road trip: FAQ
Is it safe to drive in the Balkans?
Yes. Roads vary in quality but we never felt unsafe. Albanian mountain roads can be narrow and winding, but just drive slowly. Border crossings are straightforward.
Do I need a guided tour?
Nope. The Balkans are perfect for independent travel. Roads are well-marked, people speak enough English to help, and spontaneity works better than rigid planning.
How much time do I need?
Minimum 2 weeks to hit the highlights without rushing. 3-4 weeks is ideal. 5+ weeks if you want to slow travel like we did.
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3 comments
I would love to visit this region again. We loved our time in North Macedonia. I particularly would like more time in Bosnia. You have great suggestions here and I am saving!
I just spent 2 weeks in Albania in September. This is a jewel that so many travelers don’t know about. I loved Berat, the national forests, and the big cities and little towns.
I’ve been to Montenegro years ago on a beach trip to Petrovac, we did make some trips around, but the majority of this wonderful country remained unexplored by us. Would love to go again, but on a road trip this time. Thanks for the inspiration!