We never meant to fall for Gjirokaster. This UNESCO World Heritage site in the hills of southern Albania wasn’t actually on our radar until we started planning our Albania road trip. But when we saw photos of those iconic stone houses spilling down the hillside, we knew we couldn’t leave it out. And trust us: Gjirokaster exceeded expectations!
Nicknamed the “Stone City,” Gjirokaster is the best-preserved Ottoman city in the Balkans. Silvery slate roofs, cobblestone streets that’ll leave your ankles screaming, and a massive fortress looming above it all make this city feel like a time machine. In this Gjirokaster travel guide, we’re tackling the best things to do in Gjirokaster to help you explore this brooding mountain city.
How to get to Gjirokaster
Gjirokaster is about 2.5 hours from the Albanian Riviera (Sarandë, Himarë) and about 3-4 hours from Tirana. If you’re road-tripping through Albania, it makes a perfect stop between the coast and the capital. There are also buses from major cities, but the schedules are a mystery even for Albanians, so try those only if you have seas of time! Taxi rates between cities are reasonable.
Best time to visit Gjirokaster
Spring (April-May) and fall (September-October) offer the best weather and fewer crowds. Summer can get hot, and those cobblestone climbs are no joke in 38°C heat. We visited in July, and it was scorching, which is really something to take into account! Pro tip: get a taxi to your highest point of the day (probably the castle) and walk down from there.
Last minute panic mode?
Just want to book your things quickly? Use this handy overview!
🛏 Best Gjirokaster hotels
- N’SOKAK Boutique Hotel (gorgeous boutique hotel in the old town)
- Hotel Gjirokastra (affordable & authentic)
- Rose Garden Hotel (with swimming pool!)
🥾 Best tours
- Highlights Walking Tour (see it all)
- Wood Crafting Class (top pick; make your own souvenir!)
- Castle Private Walking Tour (background knowledge)
💡 We were happy to have with us:
- Our reusable water bottles in the heat (38 Celsius!)
- Good sneakers. We walked a LOT
- Airalo e-SIM for internet access
Things to do in Gjirokaster
Explore Gjirokaster Castle
You can’t visit Gjirokaster without hiking up to the castle. And by up, I mean straight up! It’s worth the sweat, however, if temperatures reach 40 degrees like it did for us; do yourself a favour and take a taxi up.
Gjirokaster Castle dominates the skyline and is one of the biggest castles in the Balkans. From the 12th century onwards, this castle has seen it all from Ottoman rule to being used as a prison under communism. These days, you can stroll along the battlements, tour the museum inside, and even see a random US military aircraft which was taken during the Cold War (because why not?)
The castle views are truly stunning. You’ll be able to see the whole of Stone City with its distinctive slate roofs from a bird’s-eye perspective, as well as sweeping views of the Drino Valley and surrounding mountains. Go early morning or late afternoon for the best light and smaller groups on the tours.
Wander the UNESCO Old Town
The real magic of Gjirokaster happens when you just walk around. The Old Town is a maze of cobblestone alleys that twist and turn among traditional Ottoman houses that seem to hang in the air. These are not just cute European houses; these are stone mansions with the typical slate roofs that shine in the sun (and especially in the rain).
Stroll the alleys at your own pace. You’ll find local artisans’ shops, tiny cafes, and views that will have you pausing and gaping. The architecture is stunning: thick stone walls, intricately carved wooden ceilings, and those iconic overhanging upper stories. Just watch your step, those limestone cobblestones can be treacherous!
Don’t stress if you get a little lost. It’s all part of the charm. We found some of our favorite spots by taking wrong turns and following our curiosity.
Visit Skenduli House
If you want to see what life would have been like for the wealthy Ottoman families, Skenduli House is a must-visit. This 18th-century mansion is one of the best-preserved traditional houses in Gjirokaster and is still owned by the same family nine generations later.
Members of the family themselves provide a guided tour of the impeccably decorated rooms with carved wooden ceilings, fireplaces, and furniture from the Ottoman period. You learn about the house’s ingenious design; there is even a hidden room where the family would take refuge in the event of invasion. But the crowning glory is the “guest room” with its intricately painted ceiling and original furnishings.
📖 Read all about our Albanian road trip with more destination tips!
Explore the Cold War Tunnel
This is hands-down one of the most interesting things to do in Gjirokaster. In the paranoid era of Cold War-era 1970s, Enver Hoxha secretly constructed a gargantuan underground bunker system below the city, we’re talking 800 meters of tunnel with 59 rooms intended to provide shelter for the government in the event of nuclear attack.
The self-guided tour takes about 20 minutes and is a stroll through a time capsule. You’ll see the conference rooms, living quarters, and even the old-fashioned ventilation systems. It’s a fascinating (and slightly creepy) glimpse of communist Albania and the invasion paranoia that gripped Hoxha.
Hike to Ali Pasha Bridge
If you want to head out into nature for the afternoon, hiking to Ali Pasha Bridge is one of the best things to do in Gjirokaster. The 18th-century Ottoman bridge spans a gorgeous gorge, and the Drino Valley scenery is just spectacular.
The hike is about 30-45 minutes from the castle down city streets and then onto a dirt road into the gorge. The bridge itself is beautiful; a classic arched stone bridge, right out of a fairytale. Even if you don’t cross it (we were both a bit apprehensive about how high up we were!), the view is worth the hike.
Download the route on Maps.me in advance, as signage is poor. Bring water and solid shoes, the path can be rocky.
Try the Local Cuisine
Albanian food is seriously underrated, and Gjirokaster has some fantastic traditional restaurants. Don’t leave without trying qifqi (rice balls with herbs; a local specialty), tavë kosi (baked lamb with yogurt), and byrek (flaky pastry filled with cheese, meat, or spinach).
We loved dining at the restaurants with terrace views overlooking the valley. There’s nothing quite like enjoying fresh grilled meat and local wine while watching the sunset over the Stone City. Ask locals for their recommendations; they’ll point you to spots that tourists often miss.
Visit Zekate House
Another beautiful example of Ottoman architecture, Zekate House is worth a visit if you’re into traditional houses. Built in 1811, this mansion showcases the wealth and craftsmanship of the era with its multiple fireplaces, carved wooden details, and secret passages.
The house functions as a museum now, and while it’s similar to Skenduli House, each has its own unique features. If you’re really into architecture and history, visit both. If you’re short on time, pick one, they’re both excellent.
Things to do in Gjirokaster: faq
How long is enough for gjirokaster?
Is Gjirokaster worth visiting?
Can you do a day trip to Gjirokaster from Sarandë?
Gjirokaster is one of those places that sneaks up on you. It might not have the beaches of the Albanian Riviera or the buzz of Tirana, but it has something more valuable: authenticity. This UNESCO World Heritage site feels lived-in and real, with locals going about their daily lives among centuries-old Ottoman architecture.
Whether you’re spending a day here as part of a Balkans road trip or using it as a base to explore southern Albania, Gjirokaster deserves more than just a quick stop. Take your time wandering those steep streets, peek into artisan workshops, sip coffee with views of the valley, and let yourself get lost in the maze of stone houses. That’s when Gjirokaster really works its magic.
LIKE IT? PIN IT!
